August 31 - Day 13

Left very early this morning.  Cooked breakfast and not much choices, but included potato scone!  We change seats every day in order to give every one a chance for the front of the bus. The front has benefits, they do open a second door in the other side mid bus but it’s very steep.  It is the well for the emergency toilet, we call it the wine cellar.  We drive along the north coast going east. We are now in the Atlantic Ocean and we can see the moisture in the air away from the drier north sea.  We are seeing some spitting and low clouds but there are signs of clearing.  We stop stop at the Weaver’s cottage in Tongue.  There used to be weaving there but the loom is now in a museum and it’s a restaurant and gift shop.  They views over the sea are stunning.  Next we stop at Smoo Cave. It’s a hike to the bottom but spectacular views.  I huge opening carved by the sea but internally carved by a river.  The ceiling is at least 40 feet with interesting naturally carved rock formations.  Not sure how far the sea comes up at high tide but says not to go down when it changes.  The early Norwegians used it as a port to store provisions.  The river is a high falls that comes down internally and there are deeper caves off the side.  Quite a sight.  Above ground are holes in the ground showing the above ground river disappearing down into the cave.  It’s a interesting phenomenon.  We are greated by the guides with Tunnocks carmel, chocolate, marshmallow and wafer cakes.  They tell us they are baby haggis, and we believe them.  NOT.

Drive from cave to Ullapool is incredible.  It’s a combination of Alaska and Canadian mountains.  The elevations are under 4k but since we see them at sea level they are impressive.  The sea intrudes into the mountains on a regular basis. These are lochs, where the rivers meet the sea, fresh water meets salt water.  The mountains are mostly grass covered due to the moisture, warmth of the Atlantic and lower elevations.  There are some craggy outcroppings and glacial rocks strewn everywhere.  But they manage to keep the occasional farm and the sheep are everywhere including the road.  It’s hard to describe the beauty of the region.  We have seen some incredible mountain vistas and this rates right up there.  They are farming mussels in some of the locks.  The thing that’s missing is any wild animals of any size.  We don’t see anything but one scared deer.  They killed the wolves off long ago.  The elements are what are dangerous to hikers, not wild animals except the 2 legged kind.  We continue through the day with one incredible view after another.  These are old mountains, it’s obvious they were carved by glaciers during the ice age.  They are not growing with the collision of tectonic plates.  They are eroding over time.  But they are grand and given us a thrill with their show of the forces of nature.  There is water every where.  There is no snow pack in these mountains.  There is no snow pack in these mountains.  Streams and falls coming down from kettle lakes higher up.  Rain is the source and there’s plenty of it.  The water is brackish from the peat.  We see peat cuttings piled for drying along the way.  We are in and out of sun now. A much more spectacular light than full sun.  Stop at Ullapool on Loch Broom.  A cute seaside town with ferry service. There are a number of net fishing boats sitting in the port.  The row of shops line the harborside.  The low mountains around the port are very similar to being in southeast Alaska.  We eat fish and chips at the Chippy.  It’s not good for us but it’s so good tasting. We site outside on benches overlooking the harbor, surrounded by green mountains.  We see two harbor seals bobbing up by the fishing vessels. Drive on to Loch Carron on a single track road.  This huge bus has to pass anything that come toward us.  We stop at a high elevation to look over the Loch and can’t describe the beauty. The loch connects to the sea and we can tell the tide is coming in.  High mountains running into the water.  The little village of Stromeferry is below us.  They used to ferry passengers back and forth across the loch.  Continue to drive through lovely lower mountains and lots of rivers and lochs, in full sun.  We stop at Eileen Donan Castle on Loch Alsh for photos.  This is the same castle used in James Bond films and other famous movies.  It’s small by sits out in the loch connected by a bridge, used to be surrounded by tide for security.  Moving on and crossing the new bridge to the Isle of Skye.  The bridge was put in in 1997, after we left Scotland, up to then you had to use a ferry to get over.  It’s sunny and breezy.  We are staying on the tiny main street of Kyleakie at the King’s Arms Hotel.  Very historic and another one of those hotels that go on forever with miles of narrow hallways. At least it feels that way after a day of travel.  Thankfully the staff bring our bags to the room, the weight has increased with the purchases made.  They have allowed us to put an extra bag under the bus as long as we shlep it.  More tartan carpet, every hotel has had their special carpet.  There are no trains or main drags for noise so we assume a quiet night.  Dinner at the hotel, pork loin with applesauce and Hake, a kind of fish.  Fish done well but a little strong.  Fresh potatoes and veg.  Starter is a pate with oat crackers, very good.  Stroll after dinner and take pictures of sail boats bobbing in the bay.  We can see the mainland immediately across from us.  The sunset is bright rose pink on dark gray clouds, hard to describe the beauty.  Take a picture of the launch area and it is lined on the bottom with square stones taken right out of the hills.  The water is so pure it is clear to the bottom. Stop at the Saucy Sister for  hand pulled cask beer brewed on Skye. The Red and the Black are both very good.  Back to hotel for a much needed rest.  We have an early day again tomorrow.  We are nearing the end of this bus trip but more to come so have to stay well.  Some of the passengers have gotten cold, we are trying not to breath around them.  LOL.  Nighty night.