September 15 - Day 28

Slept in, woke to gray skies, humid but cool.  It’s spitting rain here and there.  Find the ceiling over our tub is leaking water into the tub.  There are no rooms above us.  They say they’ll fix it while we’re out.  We never take for granted that messages are received, understood or given.  The customer service thing is vague at times not just at the hotel.  Quick breakfast at the Club.  Underground to Victoria and Albert Museum out in Kensington.  This huge ornate Victorian brick building has gone through many modernizations while trying to retain original design.  Gone is the poky little gift shop and now big glassed-in shop.  The entry still has the large pendulum Chihuli glass sculpture.  This museum collection is much like Granny’s attic, odds and ends of sculpture, furniture, fabrics, design etc.  Although design is a strong theme here. We stop by the old dining rooms, each decorated by past designers.  William Morris designs are housed here.  There is a huge courtyard with a reflection pond.  On our way out the door Pat just happens to spot a strange sculpture.  It is a 20 foot high, 10 foot diameter pyramidal stack of thousands of Lilliputian sized porcelain shops.  The artist collected pictures of shops all over London, starting with those that are derelict at the bottom and building to the top with high end retail like Harrod’s.  He commissioned the creation of the shops including having their picture fired on them in the Potteries of England.  It was a really fun piece but it also underscores the understanding that London is a city of small shops and consumerism/trade is and has always been an important part of its life style and economy.  The charity shops will be auctioned to benefit charities and the rest of the shops will eventually be sold off.  The sculpture will be dismantled and becomes only a memory.  A pity.  The light rain has stopped, now periods of clouds and sun.  The rain actually cleared the humidity. Walk down the street to Harrod’s.  It was bought by a wealthy Egyptian some years ago.  His son is the one that Princess Diana was engaged to marry when both she and he were killed.  Her engagement ring and two champagne toast glasses are on display.  Harrods’ is a top retailer and there are many luxury items including the famous food hall.  Now many small theme cafes are part of it.  The souvenirs take up half a floor.  Pat resists, just wanting to check things out. It’s a huge old store that has a confusing floor plan.  Also, the ground floor in all stores is not the first floor.  Every large department store, except Marks and Spencer’s, makes customers walk the gauntlet of perfume and make-up sales people.  The central escalators are decorated in Egyptian theme.  We go back to St. Martin’s in the Field church.  Today’s concert is a piano and violin duet. Very beautiful music.  Pass through Trafalgar Square to get a treat for Chuck.  Stop at pub called the Admiralty facing the Square.  We try a couple hand pulled cask ales and they are pretty good.  We share a steak and ale pie which is very good.  We have rarely used Charring Cross station, it is combined underground and national train service.  We do so today.  It’s a bit un-nerving, the police at all the national rail stops are carrying machine guns.  God help us if they ever fire inside these enclosures with these huge throngs of people.  There are CCTV cameras everywhere in the city, not just in the stations.  If you pick your nose in London, someone somewhere has seen you do it!  LOL.  Get on the train before the rush hour and arrive on Oxford St. the shopping street.  Stop in John Lewis and Debenhams department stores.  Fun to see the different fashions etc.  Walk back to the hotel and start to pack.  We haven’t followed much in the news, papers or TV.  But have heard the discussions that the EU is having on how to deal with the Syrian refugees.  It’s very different in that the European countries are so attached through the Union.  They are all trying to decide who will take them, how many, and what is the long term effect.  I have heard said that the US is dragging its feet and not claiming our shared.  It changes our outlook on the US, we look more isolated in the world.  Parliament is in an upset, the left branch of the Liberal Party has won and must create a new cabinet. And comments on our presidential debates and candidates are of interest.  Unfortunately, it’s Donald Trump and Sarah Palin that seem to get the media attention.  It makes us look foolish and we’re not.   In one way it’s hard to believe we go home tomorrow, but it’s also time to go.  We think we planned our time very well and have enjoyed it all.  It’s very unlikely that we will ever return, but never say never!  The blisters will have time to heal at home.  Seth says the house is in good shape so should be an easy homecoming.  Chuck going back to work day after tomorrow and it will take a week to undo a month away. Brenna coming back for a week’s visit in a week and a half.  So more to look forward to.  We’re glad to think we have had friends and family riding along with us on the trip.  The Scotland bus trip already seems like a dream!  Glad to have our notes and pictures to remember it!  Cabbing to Paddington train station and then taking Heathrow Express to our United flight, Chicago first and then home.  We are grateful for the kindness of strangers and friends and awed by the care and competence of all the people movers who have delivered us safely to our destinations.  The clouds have parted, London is giving us one last sunset!  Nighty Night!

Have talked about the subways.  They are clean, no trash and nearly no graffiti at all.  This mode of people mover relies on a lot of tolerance and decency in order to make it work. People are generally respectful of the rules.  We have witnessed random acts of kindness between strangers.  Besides people there are backpacks, shopping bags, rolling suitcases and duffle bags.  And then there are the prams. People actually take their babies on board and seem to do well.  Wheel chairs and walking frames cannot be accommodated and see no one with a cane. The voice constantly reminds us to Mind the Gap.  The distance between the car and the platform can be higher or lower and have significant distance between them.  We must always be alert and look down before stepping forward.  We’re sure people in New York City have the same experience except they are more likely to own and drive cars, less of that in London.  One must be reasonably physically fit and have a good understanding of the system’s map.  We are experienced but is very tiring. 

September 14 - Day 27

Woke to light rain.  The giant cranes are silently working outside our window and are amazing to watch.  We can hear the bells from the Ukrainian Church down the street.  There is hard evidence that this trip is taking its toll on us.  Harder and harder to get up and get going in the morning.  Down for late breakfast in the club, no sausages for the tardy but great fresh Greek yoghurt.  We are mostly Americans, a few Aussies and some Middle Eastern folk, one whose cell phone loudly plays the call to prayer when it rings.  On the tube returning to the Temple Church (sits prominently in the city’s center for law).  This time it’s much easier to find.  We see the Magna Carta exhibit, the original is in the British Museum. It includes the revisions and bill of rights that show how the MC evolved.  It went through many versions but basically it was the seminal document that quelled the powers of the King over the common people, gave protections and freedoms, taxation with representation and right to fair trial.  From all of this comes our Declaration of Independence and Bill of Rights which are also part of the exhibit; an Englishman helped to write them.  The Temple church was started by the Knights Templar in 1100’s, think Tom Hanks in DaVinci Code.  Basically the Knights found a way to use religion to extract wealth from the Middle East through warfare and pillage.  This church was also instrumental leading to the law system the UK has today and model for the world.  This church has sarcophagi of various persons of fame whose bodies are immortalized in bronze.  The stained glass windows in the front and back are intricate, jewels, very beautiful.  This is an active church and mother church of all British barristers.  The high alter has the 10 Commandments, Lord’s Prayer and the Apostles Creed.  Besides the Magna Carta exhibit there is a history of the members of Inner Temple and their service in both world wars.  A hole in the floor is covered in Plexiglas showing the original floor and how over time the floor has been raised.  Pat climbs the twisting narrow stairs to the dome.  Not really good views but interesting original floor tiles in this area.  Exiting the Inner Temple, we are able to pass through the large, heavy doors that were locked yesterday, leading to the street.  We stop by the Royal Halls of Justice, Supreme Court, go through the security and are handed a self-guided tour map.  Map not very good and we decide not to waste time trying to decipher.  The main hall is very grand in terms of height and the nearly 300 foot long floor is hand tiled in tiny mosaics.  Head on to St Martin in the Fields Church on Trafalgar Square, the formal City Square.  The four huge black lion statue fountains circle the base of the Nelson Column.  This is a huge plaza.  The National Portrait and National Galleries are here and the large stone gateway to the Pall Mall leading to Buckingham Castle. We can just make out he spires of Westminster Abbey and Parliament.  St Martins is a long favorite of Pat’s.  This is a very progressive, activist church, working with local homeless and foreign concerns.  They have added an outside courtyard food area, very nice addition amid the chaos of the surrounding streets.   It’s a very plain church from the outside but they have built a new glass rotunda entrance to the crypt below. Have had many reasonably priced lunches here.  The crypt is high ceiling brick vaults.  The food is reasonable and good.  This area has become more sophisticated over the years.  The old gift shop and brass rubbing station is now an exhibit for sustainable environment and the Spinners guild.  The new gift shop and brass rubbing center is in the rotunda; shop still has nice things for reasonable prices but not quite like the old shop. We head upstairs for a free organ recital in the sanctuary.  This is one of our fave places. Think wedding cake.  Rococo cream on cream plaster, everything is rounded including the ceiling with curlicues, cherubs, shells, flowers and feathery Corinthian column tops.  This design covers the upper walls, ceiling and altar areas.  The high altar area plaster has been trimmed in gold.  This all contrasts with the very square Federal design of very dark stained wood of the upper balconies, walls and pews on lower level.  There is no stained glass at all, which given the design would detract from the simplicity.  The only color is found on the ceiling over the high alter, the royal coat of arms, rampant lion and unicorn.  There are huge brass Williamsburg type chandeliers.  A remarkably simple but effective large leaded glass window sits over the altar.  Clear glass that has a pattern looking like rays of light.  The leaded squares are linear until it gets to the center, then they curve and flow in a design. The center is a simple frosted oval of glass. It’s Christ on the Cross, but it requires the viewer to stop and contemplate the meaning, more provocative than putting a distinctive face on Christ.  Very well done.  The concert is amazing, better than St. Paul.  The organist is younger but still has an impressive resume.  One of his selections is called Animal Parade, each movement is a different animal and easy to recognize.  There are many free things to do in London, donations are encouraged.  We stop at the National Galleries, Pat always checks out the gift shops.  The galleries are huge and require longer periods of time to be enjoyed.  Have done some of them in the past, but not this trip.  We stop off at Covent Garden.  A large pedestrian brick plaza dedicated to shopping and entertainment.  The Royal Opera House is here and we are surrounded by the theater district.  A market has been here throughout the history of London.  Used to be mostly food for locals, now mostly tourist.  We happen into the Jubilee Market and we are just lucky to be there on the antiques day.  It is filled with old silver, china, jewelry etc.  Pat bought an old photograph of Edinburgh Castle viewed from Grass Market in the original frame here.  Also found that the little Victorian cut glass perfume bottle I bought for $2.00 and gave to a friend years ago, is now selling for $160.00.  Where was the Antiques Road Show when I needed them.  Hope friend is still enjoying.  Stroll over to the old glass covered Covent Market surrounded by stone columns.  High end shops in here and cafes.  There is quality street entertainment, we listen to an accomplished opera singer and then a quartet of strings and flute.  There is an overhead art installation of white balls looking with clouds, they light up like lightning striking. We stroll into Punch and Judy’s, a very old pub located underground, low vaulted brick cave.  Chuck wants to try a hand pulled cask beer.  The Underground for Covent Garden is only an exit.  Must walk down the street to Leister Square station. This is theater, entertainments and shopping area and crazy busy.  It’s rush hour, our worst nightmare on the tube.  We wouldn’t bother but we have a dinner reservation at Gordon Ramsey’s restaurant in the hotel.  There are so many people squashing into the train cars that sometimes they can’t get the doors closed until someone pulls their butt in.  Way too close and claustrophobic.  Thankfully, everyone seems to have bathed, especially when an armpit is in your face.  Thankfully it’s only a couple stops.  Can’t think about what would happen if the train had problems and stopped… in the dark…  Will not do this again!   Change and go to Ramsey’s Maze Grill at the hotel.  He has two restaurants here, Maze, is higher end and rated but we opt for the Grill.  It’s a very modern, minimalist design with windows overlooking Grosvenor Square.  The meal started off well enough, a big glass of complimentary champagne.  In the end, they messed up Chuck’s starter order and didn’t offer to replace, they brought the salads while we were eating the starters, no room on the tiny table so had to send it back.  Pat’s shaved cauliflower salad was interesting, but not over the top. The stars of the show were the Aberdeen Angus rib eyes and the California Cab Sauv.  We had 6 waiters and it was just chaotic.  Thinking how Ramsey’s food show is always about yelling at people who are incompetent, he should probably visit his own Maze Grill.  We declined dessert and coffee.  We’d spent enough on this ala carte menu.  They did remove a charge for Chuck’s starter.  Been there, done that.  But as stated by Samuel Johnson, if one tires of London, one is tired of life.  Infinite variety and constant stimulation and a good time if your feet and cash hold out.  LOL.  Nighty night.

September 13 - Day 26

Woke to partly sunny, still pretty warm but def cooler than the last two days.  Taking a very slow morning after the marathon day yesterday.  Full breakfast in the Club. On the underground at noon heading for Temple Church and the Courts of the Inner Temple.  Pat a fan of Rumpole of the Bailey series, fictitious character and storyline by John Mortimer. Memorably played by Leo McKern, Pat re-watches it frequently.  We walk along the Victoria Embankment Park paralleling the opposite side of the Thames walked yesterday.  So calm and peaceful with beautiful gardens.  Pass the Temple Tube station, which Rumpole took to go to chambers at 3 Equity Court.  He went home via the Gloucester Road Tube to SWMBO, She Who Must Be Obeyed, wife Hilda.  It is a thrill to retrace his steps in the show.  The Inner Temple is the home of English barristers’ offices.  It is surrounded by Gray’s Inn, various courts and the Law School.  A twisting maze of cobblestone streets and old buildings.  We happen on to the Royal Courts of Justice, similar to our Supreme Court.  Very majestic, historic building. And then we find the original Twinings Tea Shop, 1700’s. They have a tea tasting service here.  Our quest is to find the Temple Church which plays an important part in the Rumpole series.  This is the ‘barristers’ church.  Barristers are lawyers who present in court, solicitors work with barristers to prepare the briefs.  Right now the actual Magna Carta is on display.  But it’s closed, open tomorrow.  Long walk to All Hallows by the Tower Church.  Oldest church in the City of London.  Sits right next to the Tower of London.  The church was bombed in WWII but significant structure and artifacts are still here.  It started out as a Saxon Abbey in 675 AD, an arch from that Abbey is for show in the crypt museum along with an intact length of Roman pavement; making city life evidenced for most of two thousand years.  The church was called to deal with the beheaded bodies from the Tower of London in the day.  William Penn who founded Pennsylvania was baptized here and John Quincy Adams, sixth US President was married here.  The marriage license is on display from 1797.  The WWII bombings devastated the upper building.  Two walls remain intact, one from the Norman period 12^th century and one from 15^th century. In the crypt museum they have been able to find some architectural or other objects representing each century of site activity.  There are 3 tiny crypt chapels maintained.  This continues to be an active church in the life of the community.  Take the underground to St. Paul Cathedral.  This is the site for Fergie and Andrew’s wedding.  This is a majestic building and much like earlier days of London, the city grows right up next to it.  It was severely bombed in WWII and much restoration was needed. We have visited many times but today we catch the evensong service and an organ concert by an internationally renowned organist.  We sit in the middle of the huge rotunda so the acoustics are great.  This cathedral reminds Pat of St. Peter’s in Rome, in basic design.  St. Peter is the largest church in the world, St. Paul is right behind.  St. Peter is more ornate and Catholic in orientation, St. Paul, Anglican, while grand is relatively plain until you reach the rotunda and then very ornate in the choir and high alter areas.  We took Cousin Chris with us to St Paul once.  He and Brenna climbed up to the domed roof on very scary, loose railing stairs.  Better now. Underground to hotel but have a Punk IPA at the Barley Mow, the little pub next door.  Walk briefly on to Grosvenor Square next to hotel.  This is a quiet oasis of Victorian wrought iron fence with broad lawns and big trees.  There is a 9/11 memorial built with large oak pillars covered in wisteria. There is a tall statue of Franklin Roosevelt with two fountains. We pass in front of the US Embassy.  It looks like a fort with all the security barriers.  Whereas the Italian Embassy on the other side is not secure at all.  They have the flags from all 50 states and protectorates are displayed.  Dinner at the club and get ready to settle down.  We weren’t out all that long but we walked at least 5 miles.  The subways travel fast but it requires a lot of stairs, pedestrian tunnels and escalators to get to them.  We never got the hang of the buses, would probably be a lot easier and more sightseeing. Back in the day we used paper tickets and there were discarded tickets everywhere.  Now we use an oyster card, just tap a debit card on the reader and done. All day long we are touching railings and poles that thousands have touched.  Very important to keep clean hands!  There is definitely a coolness in the air.  Looks like we’ll end our stay in rain.  But no complaints.  Can’t believe our good luck with weather.  Nighty night.

NOTE:  Hard not to be sad at the loss of quaint old haunts and buildings and or have them be overshadowed by some monolithic new building.  In some cases the new buildings have put on signs that say such and such building from ___ year was on this site. But this is how it is for London.  Two thousand plus years of change and advancement, fire and war.  This city has seen it all with more to come.  One must accept it in order to enjoy the ever changing space.  Good to know some things are ‘sacred’ and or ‘historic’ by decree so will be saved.  There are no ‘bobbies’ anymore, the police look like ours carrying guns and there are no ladies who sell violets/trinkets.  The buskers, street entertainers, are now all vetted and assigned busker spaces.  More likely to hear an accomplished violinist than a ragged guy with a guitar and a dog.  So different from 20 years ago. All gone.

September 12 - Day 25

Woke early to start a big day.  Breakfast in the hotel club, scrambled eggs, yummy sausages, okay bacon, potatoes, fruit, cereal, juices, croissants, and pain du chocolat.  Stock up for long day’s trek.  We enter the underground and descend several flights of stairs; the trains moving in the subterranean remind Pat of a movie, think Tremors.  We take the train to Notting Hill Gate, aka Notting Hill, think Hugh Grant and Julia Roberts.  This is the home of the Portobello Road street market.  Antiques, silver, porcelain, clothing, lace, fresh fruit and fish stalls and lots of hand crafts.  It’s a warm gray morning and we are so early the vendors are still setting up stalls.  Notting Hill has become a little gentrified but mostly retains its funky laid back atmosphere.  Chuck can’t believe that Pat doesn’t buy anything.  Mostly, been there, done that and have stuff we now have to downsize; hoping Brenna has an interest for their new house. The market seems very tame to previous decades.  Pat used to like to buy stuff from the guys with items sold from blankets on the ground from out of their boot.  LOL.  Catch a long underground to Tower Bridge.  The newer trains are not individual cars, we can see down through the whole train like an open corridor.  We are next to the Thames River now and passing by the Tower of London.  There are Roman ruins here, still awesome.  We have been to the Tower and seen the royal jewels several times before, yet it is still a nice atmosphere.  But not today, today is crazy busy.  It’s Saturday, it’s beautiful and there are literally thousands of people milling everywhere.  We make our way to Katherine Docks next to the Tower Bridge which is now a very beautiful parklike setting.  From here we are just in time to watch the Great Thames Boat Race.  We are located behind a military band standing by the water.  There are 300 entries of row boats or boats that must be paddled, traveling over 20 miles up the Thames River.  Someone in the crowd remarks, the tide is with them but the wind is against them.  Nothing on the river stops, the big tour boats and pleasure boats have to navigate in the furthest lane.  The band plays as small boats begin to pass by.  Soon there is a string of little boats making their way.  Most teams are from around the UK, some from other countries, but today is something special.  One hundred retired Marines from the Netherlands rowed across the channel into London to celebrate 200 years of the Dutch Marines.  Many supporters were in the crowd wearing orange identifying them as Dutch.  This is a fundraiser for them for widows and orphans of fallen Marines.  The band that is playing is the Dutch Marine Band and they play through most of the race.  There are nine long boats with Dutch marines in them, they lift their oars as they pass the stands and the band plays, orange smoke is let go as they pass.  The crowd loves it!  Some of the other entries are all women crews and some are wearing costumes, Pat likes the pink tutu’s.  We walk over to the Tower Bridge. We are trying to do things in London we have never done before.  We think we took the kids to the bridge 25 years ago but can’t remember it.  We take the lift to the highest level and we take the walkway linking the two towers of the bridge near the top of the bridge.  It has a nice array of commentary on the bridge’s history and famous bridges from around the world.  We have some spectacular views but the newest feature is the glass walk way that looks directly down at the road on the bridge, the water and people walking.  Pat and Chuck can’t make themselves walk on it, it’s very unnerving.  Little kids are dancing on it, but they just don’t know….  We visit the engine room that used to drive the bridge’s bascules (the ramps that raise and lower to let ships through).  We are fortunate to be there to see it happen; these days ships must make appointments to be let through.  It’s a beautiful bridge, built over 125 years ago and we’re glad to have spent time experiencing it.  And we were gratified to know that the steel came from Glasgow.  The esplanade following the river is packed with all ages.  London has become so much more cosmopolitan than we remember from our first trips 25 years ago it’s a little shock.  Every nationality is represented mostly eastern European, African, Middle Eastern, Indian.  We are amazed in the changes in the buildings in London in general.  Very modern and interesting buildings towering over older structures.  It’s hard not to like them since they are done so well.  There are so many cranes raised around St. Paul’s Cathedral it looks like War of the Worlds attacking.  One of the buildings is the Shard (looks like points of broken glass), the tallest building in Western Europe.  Visitors can go up but we’re not good with heights. Along the way we pass Hay Galleries.  A stunning indoor/outdoor space that takes you by surprise.  A glass canopy covers the space between two buildings, small shops and a common area with seating and tables.  There is a huge metal sculpture in the middle, very industrial shape of some kind of creature. We make our way to Southwark Cathedral; there has been some form of religious institution on the site since 600AD.  It’s Anglican, Church of England, and Pat has spent many nice visits here.  It’s not an overly ornate church but we just happen into the sanctuary while the choir is practicing for church services tomorrow.  It’s a beautiful sound.  They have a nice café, including an outdoor patio.  Wander into the gift shop and Pat can’t believe it.  Many years ago she bought a pair of purple thistles on top of Celtic trinity knots earrings.  They have long been favorites but could never find them again.  Today they have one necklace left that matches the earrings.  It is a sign so must buy.  Right behind this historic cathedral is a maze of little streets and conserved old style architecture.  This would have been one of the earliest settled areas of London.  The Germans did not bomb this area in WWII as much as other devastated areas.  They used the Tower Bridge as their landmark for repeated bombings.  Along the maze of streets we come to the Burrough Market.  This market has been here since mid 1700’s but there has been a market on the site for 1000 years.  The mid boggles.  The beautiful dark green painted iron columns are covered with a glass roof.  There is every kind of food you can imagine.  Meats, veg, bakery, cheeses, and fruit, but it’s the many food kiosks serving ethnic cuisine that has everyone’s mouthwatering.  We opt for British fare, Pat with a Cornish Pasty of beef and potato and Chuck with a sausage role (puff pastry).  Pat has to have one scoop of goat milk ice cream.  This area of twisting turning old streets is another movie site, think Bridget Jones.  Ready to move on.  Still fighting the crowds so we decide we deserve a treat.  Stop at the Anchor Pub one of the oldest in London.  We have not found many Brit beers we like but they serve Punk IPA which we do.  We go to the roof terrace and watch the madding crowds.  On down the river we stop briefly at the Globe Theater.  A re-creation of the real Globe Theater where Shakespeare put on his plays.  Check out the gift shop nothing we can’t live without.  Have never seen a play here but it would be fun. Under one of the big bridges is the weekend book fair.  All kinds of used books, records and copied art are displayed on long tables.  Similar to Paris along the Seine River but there they have more small stalls.  It’s respite in this busy crowd.  Next stop Tate Modern, the most visited art gallery in London.  All London museums are free with a request for donation.  This gallery was a huge power station that sits on the river looking directly at St. Paul’s across the river, crossing the Millennial aka Hungerford foot bridge.  We stop briefly to see some of the changes they are making to the building.  The Anchorage Alaska Museum of Art has copied the same front lawns of white birch trees that we saw here first. Don’t stop for the galleries we are getting tired.  We notice the tide is going out.  The Thames River throughout the London area is affected by ocean tide, the North Sea/English Channel.  It’s a very vigorous tide and moves a bit violently.  The river has been channelized to control flooding, it used to be a huge flood plain.  Because of the tide and the soil erosion upstream, it is always muddy looking.  When the tide clears we can still see signs of old London with boat ring ties and stairs to the water.  We are ready to pack it in but we decide to brave more river walking to get to the Westminster underground, from there it’s only two short stops.  It gets more and more ridiculous.  Besides the theater and theater goers, it’s a bit of a fun fair atmosphere with skateboarding, fair rides and street entertainers.  We do stop to enjoy a street performance of English Morris folk dancers. We pass by the London Eye, the tallest Ferris wheel in Europe.  We have taken the ride before and it is enjoyable.  Today it’s overwhelming with the crowds.  We make it to the Westminster Bridge.  This is where County Hall Marriott is located, we have stayed many times; but it is under construction as is the Parliament Building across the river.  We’re not missing out on any photo opps here, have plenty of pics from the past.  Big Ben sits out there looking good.  The Westminster Bridge is so crowded it’s hard to make it through.  There are con men about every 20 feet playing the shell game, trying to get people to participate.  Can’t believe the police allow this.  The con seems to be connected and there is a foreign language we can’t identify.  This must be what it was like back in the good old bad old days in London!  Finally, Westminster Underground.  So crowded and so close.  Our first stop, one family gets out and we’re nearly empty!  Back to the Hotel. Stop at the Club for some dinner snack items and then back to the room.  Unbeknownst to us we both have black smudges on our faces.  Have no idea where it came from but reminds how dirty the city can be.  Luckily, no one knows us here!  It really was a good day and we know we have covered nearly ten miles of walking.   Always grateful for safe travel and our ability to participate.  We will not come back here again so taking advantage.  But then we’ve learned to never say never.  The last night of the Proms is taking place at Albert Hall.  There is an outdoor screening showing at Hyde Park just a few blocks away.  There are thousands of people there and the temp is dropping so watching it on TV is better.  They show Scots outside on George Square in Glasgow also watching the screening.  Brenna let us know their house closing is mid October and their move will be soon after.  In the beginning she said they would be in their new house by Christmas and they will be!  We know they are excited to get in and get settled.  Seth holding the fort in Hudson, hoping there are a few tomatoes left for us! Nighty Night.

September 11 - Day 24

Woke to full sunshine and warm temps.  Taking our time before cabbing to the station; direct, non-commuter train, one hour, arriving midday, not rush hour.  Watching TV last night and they are putting on ads with teaser scenes of the last Downton Abbey season starting here September 27.  (I think it will be later in US)  Julian Fellows, the creator, writer, producer, is smart to end the series before it goes stale.  The actors of the show have launched and or furthered careers from it and going off in various directions.  When we descended the main staircase at the castle yesterday, Pat was reminded of the scene where Lady Mary comes down in her bridal gown. It’s been a good story line of memorable characters and historical context.  Glad to be able to be there while the series is still live.

Cabbed to the train station, no problem.  The superfast trains that pass through the station really hurt our ears as they go by.  Got the bags on the train, glad we’re almost done with schlepping bags onto trains.  The height of the newer trains is greater than the height of the platforms and it’s a bit of a leap, not easy with groaning suitcases.  Don’t know why but when we get to London Paddington Station Pat leaves her jacket behind, again.  The woman sitting near us comes by to bring it to me.  Another angel has my back.  We have not taken the train out of Paddington in our memory.  It is one of the grand old stations with beautiful design and it is huge but ornate.  They are refurbishing it and would like to see it when it is done.  Take a picture of Paddington Bear bronze statue.  We cab to the Marriott on Grosvenor Square.  The driver is one of the two worst we have had.  He makes no move to help us with our luggage (all others did and we tipped them appropriately).  Not only does he take us around an extra block to get to our hotel (adding to the fare) but still doesn’t help us with our bags.  He gets no tip whatsoever.  The hotel is located squarely in the middle of London just two blocks from Oxford Street and located on the historic Grosvenor Square where the American Embassy and a few other country embassies as well.  Our room is not ready.  Luckily, we have lifetime Marriott club membership so we get a card to the club room to wait.  They have stowed our luggage so we decide to take advantage of the sunshine.  Walk up to Oxford St, the largest shopping block in the UK.  It’s miles of department stores and small shops.  The UK is the land of small shops, while there are big box stores, the small shop is still the mainstay.  We go directly into Selfridges.  It is still a very imposing building that sits on a whole city block and is has large ornate columns and an ornate clock in the center with a statue overhead. We have been here before but this time we make a special effort after watching the Selfridge series on PBS.  Harry Gordon Selfridge, American with successes in Chicago department stores, started Selfridges on Oxford St.  He pioneered the concept of large department stores in London.  The street display windows are beautiful.  Each window has gigantic flower blossoms surrounded by smaller versions with various kinds and colors in each one.  Some windows have the flowers coming out of the windows and climbing the walls.  The last time we were in London, each window had women dressed in white dinnerware, making various styles of dress.  The store is amazing, every kind of service, specialty food, bakeries, confectionaries, wine, spirits, clothing, housewares, cigar shop and small kiosk restaurants.  When you enter from Oxford St one has to run the gauntlet of store people spraying perfume and offering lipsticks and make up.  There is the Tiffany Store for jewelry and the Wonder Store with exorbitantly priced goods.  We find a 90,000 pound ($180,000.00) bottle of champagne.  But we can’t find any Crabbie’s green ginger wine.  Meet a young man from DC who is there shopping with his wife, flying home from South Africa.  Walk to a small quiet street one block off noisy Oxford St.  We stop at a small Italian restaurant called Fino’s, very authentic.  Pat remembered this place when she and Karen Bitzer stayed at Park Lane Marriott and found this refuge after a hard day of sightseeing.  Shared calamari and a wood fired pizza.  There is an unexpected oasis called Garden Terrace.  A raised garden found up several steps.  Bordered on far ends by follies, a waterfalls, flower pots and a small glassed restaurant with a few chairs or eat on the benches.  On a side street high above the madding crowd but can see Oxford St directly down 2 blocks.  This area is surrounded by close streets of fashionable (aka expensive) flats in conserved red brick buildings.  Rooftops have patios.  There is a Ukrainian Church lined up in the row of buildings.  Found a cute little pub on the way home next door to the hotel.  Sat at a sidewalk table and have a half pint.  Cockney spoken on the right side and Italian spoken on the left, we couldn’t understand either one. But no one cared, it is a beautiful day with perfect temperatures.  Have dinner snacks later at the club in the hotel.  The room is quiet, but oh so tiny.  The bathroom is the smallest yet.  But room space is prime in this location.  It makes the invention of wall mounted flat screen TV’s very smart.  We are located in the interior of the hotel.  Interesting to see what is in the courtyards of these buildings.  There is a beautiful grassed patio and a raised terrace of trimmed bushes.  Can just see the top of Selfridge’s and the flags. We have a full day tomorrow with walking and underground travel.  More adventure.  Must tend to my blisters. Nighty Night.

September 10 - Day 23

Awoke to early morning mist.  Slept in as long as possible.  Downton Abbey Day!  We have the cab booked to take us to Highclere Castle (the filming site) but not entirely sure of getting tickets.  This is the last possible day for admittance so either we are successful or it will be a bust.  We skip breakfast after such a big dinner.  Our cabbie is bang on time and he is local born and bred.  Our accents get things garbled but he is very friendly and helpful.  He has never been to Highclere and just recently found out his Mum watches Downton Abbey.  The program is such an American sensation, hard to believe the locals are clueless.  Newbury is a very nice area, low crime, small town atmosphere.  We arrive at the castle in clearing mist and there it is!  We walk right in and are the second in line to get tics and up the path we go. Besides the highly recognizable castle there are the also recognizable giant cedar trees.  We are early and no one is really about yet.  We walk to the tea shop and have our scone, clotted cream and strawberry jam and coffee, outside under the trees.  The castle opens and we are very early in the line to go inside.  No photography allowed.  The entry, the library, the salon and main hall, some of the bedrooms and dining room are very recognizable from the program.  The servants’ stairway and the serving area are used.  But the below stairs kitchen and staff dining room are completely contrived and shot at the Ealing studios in London.  Highlights of the castle:  embossed leather walls in the main salon, tapestries from an Italian castle and Napoleon’s desk and chair.  One book in the library dates to 1538.  Other highlights are the high windows and how they look out onto the smooth green hills and large trees.  (Reminds Pat of Ashland County)  The fifth Earl of Carnarvon is credited with the unearthing of the Tutankhamun tomb in Egypt.  There is an extensive exhibition of his joint finds with Carter.  We see a part of the authentic collection the rest is found in the Metro Museum in NYC.  The other half of the collection are copies of original. In earlier days, Lady Almina had to sell some of the originals to pay the taxes.  The grounds contain incredible old, large cedar trees.  One is featured in the program anytime the drive leading to the house is shown.  The property is 5000 acres under the Earl of Carnarvon.  He and his wife are a team who work to preserve the property; she has an economics background and contributes in the running.  The family does not live in the castle anymore but have a house elsewhere on the property.   They use it for family Christmas gatherings.  It is rented out for weddings.  Two riders on horses pass in front of us, this is still a family operation and the family is visible at any time.  As we sit in the courtyard three women pass by into the private area, one is Lady Carnarvon, very smartly dressed in white jeans and blouse.  We believe the other two are daughters.  The property is closed until Christmas, it used to be an open house to the public for Christmas but now requires tickets and very desirable and hard to get.  Not only are the house and grounds decorated but there are small kiosks set up inside the castle with crafts and food for sale.  We decide to explore the grounds.  We take various lawn paths through fields.  We find a folly on the hill (a small building usually looking like a Greek temple).  In Scotland, we arrived during the last hurrah of wild summer blooms and left with the plants fading into fall.  Same is happening here.  Just like Scotland we see trees starting to turn.  Pat finds elderberries and remembers pies her grandmother made with the tiny berries.  We happen on to the secret garden, attached to the walled garden.  This property is not one of vigorous trim and geometric shapes.  It’s mostly very natural looking including the flowers and bushes.  We happen onto another folly only this one is a more formal Greek structure called Jackdaws Castle.  Again, no function just a place to walk.  However, the view back to the castle from this place shows a full side of the castle.  From this viewpoint we can see the herds of earl’s sheep.  The original castle was a property owned by the church.  It was fairly plain.  But the architect Barrie, who designed the British parliament, wrapped the building in a stone façade and applied a roof line that is similar to Parliament building in the 1700’s.  We stop at the tea shop for lunch, veg tart, chicken and sauce, both with boiled potatoes and steamed veg.  Shortbread and walnut cake eaten at a table under the trees.  A stop at the gift shop.  Not too much with reference to Downton Abbey which must have copyrights.  Most everything is Highclere Castle.  Buy a few things.  Hearing lots of American voices.  Oxford is not far away and we assume many Americans stay there.  Have spent 6 plus pleasant hours here in full sun and refreshing breezes, call a cab. We even get our same cabbie picking us up to take us back!   Back to the Hilton (without a lift).  Stopped at a Tesco (aka Target).  They have Krispy Creams and other recognizable brands.  We buy some snack items and plan to eat lighter for dinner in our room.  There’s a Pizza Hut and a McDonald’s nearby if we get desperate. LOL.  Downstairs sells Speckled Hen Ale, rare in the US but very tasty.  We plan a lazy evening.  Must pack up again in the morning, cab to the station and take the train back to London tomorrow.  This diversion was worth it.  We had a sunny warm day, easy entry and the castle/grounds didn’t disappoint.  Overheard locals say, we have to enjoy this sun, it will be the last!  First evening without any commitments and watching British DIY and flea market find shows.  Looking forward to London for the next 5 nights, no packing, no cabs, no trains.  Walking and underground will be the way.  The blog is a pain to keep up, especially during the bus trip, but we’re glad we did it.  Not able to keep up the pictures but will be plugging them in at some point.   Nighty Night. 

September 9 - Day 22

Woke to a cool gray morning.  Can’t complain after weeks of weather perfection in this northerly land surrounded by the sea.  It’s Chuck’s golf morning with John Revill.  He can’t wait to get out on the course so he’s like a kid on the first day of school.  We counted up the number of Scottish courses he has played and we think he’s at about a dozen, some links, some not.  He is outfitted in McLean’s kindly lent sports coat and his golf shoes.  It is a miracle that they fit well enough to be seen in public.  The joke is that McLean as left handed wears lefty golf shoes so Chuck will find his feet going in the opposite direction.  Pat making sure the suitcases can hold our clothes and finds.  Luckily we will be on the train and handling our own bags so not quite the same as packing for the airplane.  Found a few things in the charity shops, a favorite place to snoop for treasures and benefit the charity at the same time. Kathleen stops off for a coffee with McLean and Marion and then we drive to the new Transportation Museum on the Clyde River near the city center.  The museum has every sort of transportation vehicle found in the Glasgow area over a couple centuries.  The actual museum design is noteworthy on its own.  Hard to describe the space, but spacious, lively and full of neat stuff.  Attached on the dock is the Glen Lee a wooden sailing cargo ship from early 1900.  It has an impressive history and now can be seen in its entirety.  Great views up and down the Clyde River, showing the new entertainment venues, science museum and new BBC Scotland studios.  There is a free ferry running from Glasgow side to the Govan side. We see mention of the Govan Parrish church and the Govan stones.  After some searching we find the church and a very big surprise.  The church itself is late 1800’s but there have been at least 5 prior churches on the site since medieval times when Strathclyde was a Kingdom.  Found in the cemetery and displayed in the church are the Govan stones, thought to predate medieval times.  Many Celtic designs are on the huge burial stones and a hand hewn stone sarcophagus with same designs is said to contain the relics of Constantine around 500 AD.  There are huge rounded stones called hog rocks because they are shaped with the back of hogs, with intricate hewn designs, said to be burial markers for Viking chiefs.  We had to go to Orkney’s to see what is here in Glasgow!  It is still a bit confusing, didn’t think the Vikings came down this far.  The church has some design elements of interest but the stones are the main feature.  A surprise to long time Glaswegians, so a real find. The cemetery is in need of maintenance, this is a place that will become more refined and well known.  But we saw it in rough state.  A Glasgow U student greets us and she is from Boston!  Drive by Pollack House and Gardens and Burrell Museum.  Reminded of this beautiful oasis of open green fields and parklands right in the middle of Glasgow.  Meet Chuck and John at Cathcart Castle Golf Club for dinner.  We used to be members here. They golfed at Western Gailes but meeting here for dinner.  Revill’s treated the Ferguson’s and us to a nice dinner and friendly chat.  Thanking them for the lovely meal and a great day out.  Taking time for an evening chat with Marion and McLean.  Just learned about Crabbie’s Green Ginger wine made in Edinburgh; often mixed with whisky. Alas, tomorrow we train to London.  It’s hard to say good-by but we must move on.  We are grateful for these friendships and how they have enriched our lives.  Nighty Night.

September 8 - Day 21

Woke to a cool gray morning.  Can’t complain after weeks of weather perfection in this northerly land surrounded by the sea.  It’s Chuck’s golf morning with John Revill.  He can’t wait to get out on the course so he’s like a kid on the first day of school.  We counted up the number of Scottish courses he has played and we think he’s at about a dozen, some links, some not.  He is outfitted in McLean’s kindly lent sports coat and his golf shoes.  It is a miracle that they fit well enough to be seen in public.  The joke is that McLean as left handed wears lefty golf shoes so Chuck will find his feet going in the opposite direction.  Pat making sure the suitcases can hold our clothes and finds.  Luckily we will be on the train and handling our own bags so not quite the same as packing for the airplane.  Found a few things in the charity shops, a favorite place to snoop for treasures and benefit the charity at the same time. Kathleen stops off for a coffee with McLean and Marion and then we drive to the new Transportation Museum on the Clyde River near the city center.  The museum has every sort of transportation vehicle found in the Glasgow area over a couple centuries.  The actual museum design is noteworthy on its own.  Hard to describe the space, but spacious, lively and full of neat stuff.  Attached on the dock is the Glen Lee a wooden sailing cargo ship from early 1900.  It has an impressive history and now can be seen in its entirety.  Great views up and down the Clyde River, showing the new entertainment venues, science museum and new BBC Scotland studios.  There is a free ferry running from Glasgow side to the Govan side. We see mention of the Govan Parrish church and the Govan stones.  After some searching we find the church and a very big surprise.  The church itself is late 1800’s but there have been at least 5 prior churches on the site since medieval times when Strathclyde was a Kingdom.  Found in the cemetery and displayed in the church are the Govan stones, thought to predate medieval times.  Many Celtic designs are on the huge burial stones and a hand hewn stone sarcophagus with same designs is said to contain the relics of Constantine around 500 AD.  There are huge rounded stones called hog rocks because they are shaped with the back of hogs, with intricate hewn designs, said to be burial markers for Viking chiefs.  We had to go to Orkney’s to see what is here in Glasgow!  It is still a bit confusing, didn’t think the Vikings came down this far.  The church has some design elements of interest but the stones are the main feature.  A surprise to long time Glaswegians, so a real find. The cemetery is in need of maintenance, this is a place that will become more refined and well known.  But we saw it in rough state.  A Glasgow U student greets us and she is from Boston!  Drive by Pollack House and Gardens and Burrell Museum.  Reminded of this beautiful oasis of open green fields and parklands right in the middle of Glasgow.  Meet Chuck and John at Cathcart Castle Golf Club for dinner.  We used to be members here. They golfed at Western Gailes but meeting here for dinner.  Revill’s treated the Ferguson’s and us to a nice dinner and friendly chat.  Thanking them for the lovely meal and a great day out.  Taking time for an evening chat with Marion and McLean.  Just learned about Crabbie’s Green Ginger wine made in Edinburgh; often mixed with whisky. Alas, tomorrow we train to London.  It’s hard to say good-by but we must move on.  We are grateful for these friendships and how they have enriched our lives.  Nighty Night.

September 7 - Day 20

Woke to fog and cool temps.  Heading out for Isle of Arran today on the west coast so hoping for the best.  Today is very special; Brenna and Zach celebrate their first anniversary. One year ago we were at Girdwood under sunny skies with bagpiper piping and beautiful flowers and special times.  We eat a quick breakfast, always generously prepared by Marion, not sure when she sleeps.  We grab our gear and travel to the coastal town of Ardrossan to catch the 50 minute ferry to Arran.  We hit heavy fog on the way down but we have faith it will get better.  There is no rain forecast so that’s good. The ferry is the largest we have been on.  Counting today’s round trips we will have been on 9 ferries this trip.  We pull the car into the bay and a second level of cars has already been raised above us. It is a tradition for the Ferguson’s to have bacon baps or botties on their morning ferry trip.  So we sacrifice and eat the fresh bread and tasty bacon. The sea is calm and easy sailing. Arrive in the town of Brodick.  Arran is called Scotland in miniature, having some level of Scotland’s lands and seas within its 80 miles of shoreline.  The big peak, Goat Fell, around 2800 feet is shrouded in clouds right now.  We drive off the ferry through the little town following the shoreline.  The site of Ferguson’s 60^th anniversary family celebration is a very nice resort and spa.  We heard so much about that weekend we’re glad to revisit the site with them.  We drive by Brodick castle but just get a few pics.  Stop off briefly for Arran’s Aromatics, lotions and perfumes and soaps and Arran cheeses; pick up oak smoke and claret cheeses to try.  Stopped at Arran Distillery for a quick visit.  Pick up a small bottle to test later.  This business is only 20 years old.  While there we find some Arran ice cream, frozen custard confection.  Stop at Lochranza Castle located on a beautiful bay of water.  This is the ruins from medieval times and still has enough structure to see what it must have looked like.  We follow the shoreline of very narrow track road and tiny villages.  We are facing Bute Sound and across from here is the Mull of Kintyre, in Argyllshire, home of the Campbell Clan.  It is accessible by ferry.  Stop at Black Waterfoot, a stream coming out of the mountains to the ocean.  This tiny village has a golf course played by McLean and friends on family vacations. It is also the site of the family reunion lunch.  The clubhouse is very nice and the lunch was tasty.  Ferguson’s share their family vacation memories all along the way, pointing out the sites. All along the way we periodically see very old tiny harbors made out of stone, most still used.  This is unique to any area we have seen until now.  Pat sees a big rock on the edge of the water and thinks it is a seal.  It is!  It’s a huge thing poised on the top of a 6 foot rock.  Can’t figure how it’s going to get down, except to wait for the tide.  We see a fair number of cormorants, diving sea birds. We have driven through some tight valleys and high mountain passes.  We still can’t see the mountains.  But we can see lots of sheep.  The island highway is a figure 8; we travel the top half and cut back through the middle.  By now we are in full sun and the mountains are clearing.  Get in line for the ferry and voila!, faith prevails.  Goat fell and other high peaks are unveiled out of the mists.  It’s a beautiful sight.  As we leave Brodick we can see Holy Island and Ailsa once more.  Enjoying the top deck with warm breezes and full sun.  The water is like quicksilver. Out of the blue there is a huge black submarine running on the surface right behind our ferry.  It moves quickly out away from the Firth of Clyde and toward the Irish Sea. Looking up the Firth of Clyde there are many large mountains looming and we believe we are likely seeing Ben Lomond at least and maybe even Ben Nevis.  Back on land and heading for Glasgow.  On a high point coming into town we see a vista of hills and mountains in the north over the Clyde River.  It is a spectacular sight.  We all know that we have had an exceptional day of adventure, views and friendly chat.  Returning home to a ‘picnic’ of Arran and Orkney cheeses and oak cakes and a few digestive biscuits.  Still full from lunch, it hits the spot.  Ending the day with laughs and chats.  Most grateful for the beauty of nature, the weather, safe travels and good friends.  Last day in Glasgow tomorrow, sorry to go.  Nighty night.

September 6 - Day 19

Woke to partly cloudy back at Atholl Drive. Nice to have some time to wake slowly and not have bags out the door, showered, dressed and have breakfast very early in the morning.  Start to rediscover our souvenirs and repacking suitcases to see how we will make it all fit.  Planned the clothes very well and seem to have plenty to end the trip in London without doing more than a wash out a couple things.  In London no one knows us nor do they care, so clothes will be okay but at the end of the line.  Nice breakfast with bacon botties.  McLean made a run for fresh rolls made only in Glasgow and we added cooked bacon, very good.  Fresh strawberries likely grown in Fife on farms we passed.  Chuck trying to fit into a borrowed dress jacket and golf shoes, it looks like he may be able to use McLean’s!  We are surprised.  Re the jacket, it fits as long as he doesn’t breathe, eat or try to button it.  What he does for golf.  The course he is going to on Tuesday requires jacket and tie for admittance.  So it looks he’s been able to piece it together with friends’ help.

Took some time out and did email and took another nap after breakfast.  The colds are under control but still present.  Mid afternoon drive down to Troon, town to the west of Glasgow on the Atlantic Ocean. We can clearly see the Isle of Aran and Ailsa rock.  The dome shaped huge rock sits out in the water all by itself. This is the island where the only granite used for curling stones is mined. No one lives out there.  Troon is known for golf courses and golf links (courses on the water), 6 in total in town and we passed four on the way down. Turnberry is just in the next community, a world famous links.  We arrive at the Ferguson daughter’s house. We get to meet Sheena, her husband Neil and two of the three grandsons, all young men going to college.  We have a lovely visit and leave in full sun to drive around Troon a bit and then stop on the way home at the Glasgow Gailes, a golf course and club that McLean belongs to.  A lovely old red sandstone building with a beautiful dark wood ornate beamed ceiling.  The hallways are lined with old oak lockers with members’ names written on brass plaques.  We have the place to ourselves and have a light supper and enjoy the sunny views over the course.  Back to the house for winding down and then to bed.  We have an early morning ferry to the Isle of Aran tomorrow.  Fingers crossed that we will have good weather.  We have been extremely lucky so far.  Heard from Seth, all is good at home. He is staying down for the weekend and now we know why.  The temps are in the 90’s and he doesn’t have AC.  This heat will speed up the last of the tomatoes, hoping we still have a few when we reach home.  Brenna and Zach’s house is moving forward.  There are some items that must be dealt with in the house condition before the loan will go through.  They feel strongly it will all work out! Nighty night.

September 5 - Day 18

Woke late, skipped breakfast, took leisurely showers and packed without haste or need to put bags out.  Took a stroll to the fancy Sainsbury grocery at Buchanan Galleries and picked up a few cookies.  Then up Sauchiehall Street to the Willow Tea Room.  Mrs. Cranston started tea rooms in Glasgow and was a friend of the designer/architect Charles Rennie MacIntosh.  Contemporary of Frank Lloyd Wright and the Roycroft movement.  MacIntosh designed the Willow Tea Room complete with furnishings in 1903.  Today the first floor is a gift shop and museum of sorts of his furniture designed for the space.  He uses mostly black, white, pink and lavender.  Very arts and crafts in design.  We get a small table before the crowd comes in and get the special tea service.  Pots of tea of our choice and a three tier stand of delicious things. First layer, tea sandwiches of cuke and cress, egg salad, beef and horseradish and salmon. Second layer huge hockey puck current scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam, some of the best scones we’ve ever had.  Third tier, a round chocolate cake the size of a huge muffin, split with clotted cream in the center and thick chocolate frosting rose on top and two large ear muff size meringues with clotted cream in the center.  The meringues were not completely dry but had a bit of moist chewy center.  The whole thing was incredibly delicious!!!!!  It was our breakfast and lunch. Thankfully dinner would be late.  Cab to the Ferguson’s who had not changed the lock since we last left, thankfully.  Greeted warmly and sat down to a smalicious!!!!!  It was our breakfast and lunch. Thankfully dinner would be late.  Cab to the Ferguson’s who had not changed the lock since we last left, thankfully.  Greeted warmly and sat down to a smalicious!!!!!  It was our breakfast and lunch. Thankfully dinner would be late.  Cab to the Ferguson’s who had not changed the lock since we last left, thankfully.  Greeted warmly and sat down to a light tea f Dundee cake and biscuits.  Who were we to refuse?  LOL The day is sunny and warm, still lucking out with the weather.  Lots of chat and catching up.  Dinner, mixed seafood pie and sauté peppers.  Apple tart with custard.  Nice French white wine.  We brought back Groaties from John O’Groats in Caithness and stopped to pick up some Orkney cheese.  We had that as our cheese course.  Then coffee in the conservatory with fruit and nut Cadbury chocolate.  So, far all our walking has kept us able to zip up our jeans.  But we literally have eaten our way across Scotland.  Lots more time for chat and then bed and blessed sleep!  Nighty night.

September 4 - Day 17

Slept in this morning until 8AM.  Skipped breakfast.  We needed the sleep because the colds we were trying to stave off have started.  Sore throat, cough, achy, sneezing.  Our hotel is located close to the city center and is a chain Holiday Inn Express.  We are on the second floor right I a corner room so we can see up and down the streets.  We are right behind the Symphony Hall at the top of Buchanan Street, both major train stations and bus station are located here. We’re back in big city surrounds complete with sirens and traffic. The room is tiny but it has all the amenities and is nicely decorated in modern style.  There is air conditioning that helps with stuffiness.  The site is very convenient and there is a bar restaurant downstairs. Our frequent traveler status helps with getting unlimited Wi-Fi and a late check out time. We have to put our room card into a slot to turn the room’s power on.  This is a very well lit room which is nice.  The card thing discourages wasting power while out.

On to the bus at 9AM and head to Stirling Castle about 2 hours north east in the town of Stirling.  70 degrees and cloudy but no rain.  It’s a nice morning, no rain, but there is weather change in the air.  The huge bus has to negotiate hair pin turns and narrow streets lined in stone walls to get to the top of the ‘hill’ to the castle.  It is very picturesque and we have visited many times.  The distant view is of the open valley of the Clyde River.  Fields of grain and livestock, the Wallace monument on the far hill and the little towns nearby, namely the cute town of Bridge of Allan. We can clearly see the Wallace monument standing on a hill across the valley.  Our focus is to visit the re-constructed castle tapestries.  They have been working on them for years.  On our last visit 9 years ago we watched them working on them.  About a dozen individual artisans from various countries completed the 7, 8 x 10 tapestries for the throne room.  This is a castle very much associated with Mary Queen of Scots and family.  So, it is an important royal heritage site for the Scots.  The artisans had to create a map of the original tapestries and then create the best warp and weave to achieve the recreations.  They hand dyed all the wool and cotton threads and attempted to match as best they could to original.  The last tapestry was completed and hung this June.  They are a stunning addition to this refurbished castle in the throne room, works of art.  There are actors in costume all about the castle and they are acting out what would have been their daily chores or jobs.  They will stop to answer questions while in character.  We decide to walk down the cobble stone streets (aka steep winding hill) to the town center since we really had not spent much time there in the past.  We take some pictures and stop in a few shops. The Argyll Arcade is a nice surprise with specialty shops. The Thistles is a large shopping mall that has a front street façade the doesn’t distract but offers large department stores and grocery.  We see a bagpiper and a man from Africa playing an African drum together. Makes for some very interesting music.  Climb back to the castle on cobblestone and it’s quite a task.  Back on the bus to go to our farewell lunch at the singing farmer’s farm.  We travel back roads again that are one lane with dips and curves.  We drive along Loch Ard and the road literally runs on the shore of the loch with only a low stone wall separating us.  We are in the Trossachs, a National Park of low mountains and beautiful lochs on the other side of the mountain from Loch Lomand.  We pass through the quaint town of Aberfoyle and many expensive large homes.  We stop at the Ledard Farm which ends down a lane.  Some of the buildings date from 1600’s.  We are led to lunch by the sound of the pipes. We have lunch in a byre, a barn.  We sit at tables with benches surrounded by implements of ancient war and lots of history.  Rob Roy (or so they say) took part in the harvest festival on this site when he was a teenager.  Our lunch is lentil soup, roll, lamb with veg and vinegary mint sauce and scalloped potatoes (potatoes are always on the menu in some form).  White and red wine is served and local well water said to be the best around.  Our dessert is a cream pudding with oatmeal, raspberry sauce and shortbread.  We are treated to history and local music, side bellows bagpipes, harmonica and guitar.  We are led to another out building where a whisky dram and coffee are served.  This is our farewell meal, we all scatter after this. Back on the bus to Glasgow.  We walk down to George Square and check out some of the old and new restaurants.  Very posh.  Think ornate old banks and commerce buildings. Buy a few more souvenirs and walk back. Some of the travelers have gathered in the bar so we join them for trip memories, perceptions and farewells.  We join the McQuarrie’s from Winnipeg for a late dinner at a Greek restaurant near George Square.  City Hall is li up and very pretty in the Square.  The food is excellent and then back for bed. It’s been a long trip and our colds are playing on our energy stores.  We have a late check out tomorrow to do any last minute activities and then back to the Ferguson’s for a little peace and quiet?  We have plans for our remaining visit. Not much planned, just going to Troon for lunch with their daughter and husband, drive over to the Island of Aran and then golf and dinner out with Revill’s.  Tired but happy tired.  Nighty night.

The Trip.  Our fellow travelers were very nice.  As you can imagine there were a variety of personalities.  We were mostly over 60 so while we had life experience we were like kids having an adventure.  The Melbourne lady with the broken arm rallied and they were continuing on with their European tour.  Others were continuing travels in Scotland, Wales and England.  Everyone had a good sense of humor and it was needed frequently given the early mornings, demanding schedule and short stopovers.  There were 50 people on our bus and a companion was running parallel to us. So when we stopped anywhere we were 100! There were always lines, getting off and on the bus, restrooms and buffet meals.  But we kept it together.  There were criticisms of the schedule and some accommodation but basically everyone was very pleased with the scope of the trip that was fitted in.  We all knew Scotland very well at the end.  All in all it’s a trip we would recommend but it is very demanding and different from our self-directed trips.  Most of our trip was sunny with very little rain.  The clouds rolled away and revealed mountain tops and islands.  We can’t find any fault with the weather.  Orkneys and Glencoe and Iona in full sun, we are grateful!

The Driver. Tommy the Driver, Tommy II, is very short in stature but he handled the bus like a pro.  Can’t believe how he got us in and out of tight spots and navigated narrow roads for many hours.  He is from Port Glasgow, he has a very deep Glasgow accent and mostly we can’t understand him when he speaks fast.

The Guide. Tommy the Guide, Tommy I, is a very friendly affable person.  He hails from Dumfries.  His accent is very lyrical and when he speaks quickly it’s hard to understand.  He tended to be a little vague on details and over-estimated timing. He also wasn’t very forthcoming with in-depth info on the area and its history.  He handled the health issues that arose very well and took care of those in need.  Always a smile, hard to find fault with him.  Plus he found opportunities to treat us to small whiskys, short bread and strawberries.